Most Common Kawasaki FR691V Starter Problems & Solutions

The Kawasaki FR691V engines are used in the Cub Cadet mowers usually. They are usually good performers. It usually has 10 teeth and comes with 0.6 kW or 0.8 HP power.

The most common problems with the Kawasaki FR691V starter is the solenoid failure, safety switch problem, overheating problem, lack of compression, gear problems, relay problems etc.  

In this article, I will discuss these problems in details and also include solutions. I will overall give you a general idea on what the users feel about this Starter too. So read till the end and find out.

Problems and Solutions at a Glance:

Problems with Kawasaki FR691V StarterSolutions
Solenoid FailureTroubleshoot after continuity testing.
Safety Switch ProblemTroubleshoot after continuity testing.
Starter Motor ProblemTroubleshooting and replacements.
Cut Off Valve OpeningTroubleshooting.

4 Most Common Kawasaki FR691V Starter Problems and Their Possible Solutions:

You may experience Kawasaki FR691V Starter problems due to many parts failure and other issues. Here are some of the problems and how to solve them.

1. Solenoid Failure

This is the most common cause of the FR691V starter failure. The Solenoid clicks, but the Starter doesn’t engage. The mower is hard to start.

You may notice some cranking. But the mower won’t turn over. Often, there may be no cranking whatsoever. You can test this with a battery booster.

Just supply 12 volts and turn the key switch to the start position. Make sure the key switch is working. Check the multimeter of the output from the solenoid and also if the voltage is being transferred to the solenoid.

Then check if the voltage is going from the solenoid to the Starter. If you get zero as reading, then the solenoid is your culprit.

The Fix:

The solenoid is held by some bolts. The solenoid should be brought out by unscrewing those and the new one needs to be placed. Check the grounding of the solenoid and check again with the multimeter.

Check the cables that come out of the solenoid too with a multimeter. Make sure these wires are not damaged and that’s not the source of the problem. You are good to go with these steps done properly. Conduct further continuity tests to ensure there is no problem.  

2. Safety Switch Problem

It is the second most common issue for these starter failures. Unlike solenoids, it is a little vaguer to diagnose. For this, use a test light with a negative lead attached to the ground.+

You should test the system to see where power continuity ends. The positive end of the battery supplies power, which flows down to the solenoid. You ought to detect 12 volts when you contact the solenoid.

Thus, you know that the solenoid is receiving electricity, indicating that the cable and fuse are in good condition. The next location where electricity must be accessible is a tiny component situated directly between the solenoid’s two posts.

The test light won’t display any power in this position. Because there is no power there. And once those two components are powered up and the post is connected, power travels to the Starter, which starts your lawnmower.

Now you have to narrow it down between the switches. It can be the PTO engagement switch issue, the safety switch issue under the seat or the parking brakes etc. You will most likely find no power with the safety switch (no red dot when you turn the switch on).

The Fix:

Plastic clips on the mower hold the safety switch. The switch can be accessed by removing the battery from the back. You can use a screwdriver or needlenose pliers to get this switch out. Replace it afterwards.

3. Starter Motor Problem

There are delicate parts inside the starter motor that can get damaged. This may cause the Starter to fail.

Remove the brush plate assembly and through bolts. After that, remove the york, nut, washer, spring, pinion gear, rubber damper, collar, and end cover.

Hold the brushes in place with the proper tool. Verify the motor’s brush length by looking at it. Check springs with a brush for burrs, corrosion, cracks, and pitting.

The Fix:

Make necessary replacements of the parts, such as the motor’s spring. Connect the brush plate assembly to the armature assembly. Install the yoke so that the brush plate assembly’s groove fits the slit on the yoke.

The armature shaft should be greased. The end cover should be installed so that the slit fits the yoke’s protrusion. Tighten the through bolts on the starter motor. Install the washer, spring, pinion gear, rubber damper, and collar.

Make sure that no grease adheres to the contact area between the rubber damper and the collar. Correctly tighten the bolts.

4. Cut Off Valve Opening

The common symptom is that the Starter engages the drive and runs, but the engine won’t turn over. A rubber disk turns the starter gear. The Starter will crank the drive for a few turns before stopping, even after the starter drive has been removed and the rubber disk has been cleaned.

It will also likely cause low compression issues. In addition, you may notice the gears not turning on the starter during an inspection.

The Fix:

The cut off valve opening needs to be adjusted to solve this issue. Adjust the valve clearance to the required value since valve repairs alter the valve clearance. Until the piston is at the top dead center of the compression stroke, turn the crankshaft in the appropriate direction.

Locknut and adjustment bolt should be loosened. Next, a 0.05 mm (0.0020 in) thickness gauge should be inserted between the rocker arm and valve stem end.

And the adjustment bolt should be turned until the thickness gauge binds at that location. During this adjustment, sweep the thickness gauge.

Tighten the adjusting locknut to the required torque while using a spanner to hold the adjusting bolt. The valve clearance adjustment locknuts shouldn’t be tightened too much.

Measure the valve clearance once again after the adjustment. If required, re-adjust the valve clearance.

What Majority of the Users Feel Kawasaki FR691V Starter?

The original Starter by Kawasaki is no longer produced. A different one is being used instead. It’s is probably due to the numerous failures the Starter has suffered.

The failures tend to remain within the bounds of the starter motor. The armature also suffers damage frequently. Wiring is another issue sometimes.

Kawasaki only offers a three-year warranty on the engine. These starters tend to go bad frequently. Most people seem to be unhappy with it.

Frequently Asked Questions

What kind of problem exists with the armature of the Kawasaki FR691V motor?

The armature can get corroded due to frequent rubbing.

How do you adjust the valves on a Kawasaki FR691V?

Crack the nut loose and adjust by turning the screw.

Are Kawasaki engines better than Briggs and Stratton?

Yes, in terms of power output and nuance-free performance.

How much oil does a Kawasaki FS600V hold?

It holds about 1.2 litres.  

Final Thoughts

After some research, I found that the starter is prone to going bad way too often. Therefore, I would suggest you to steer clear of this one. You can instead use another engine on your cub cadet to avoid the entire range of FR691V problems.

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