Kawasaki FR691V is a 0.73 l (726 cc, 44.3 cu-in) V-twin 90° internal combustion 4-stroke air-cooled small gasoline engine with a vertical shaft. The FR is a type of engine called a “heavy-duty residential engine.” Three things stand out: the air filtering, the engine covers, and the carburetor.
However, many problems exist with this one. The most common problems with Kawasaki FR691V include starter issue, carburetor issues, starter issue, engine backfiring, blown head gasket and damaged solenoids etc.
These issues are discussed in this article today. You will also find out about the solutions in this article. So read on to find out!
Problems and Solutions at a Glance:
|Problems with Kawasaki FR691V||Solutions|
|Carburetor Issues||Replace carburetor, clean fuel filter and troubleshoot other things as necessary.|
|Starter Issue||Starter troubleshoots, and replace rods and solenoids as necessary.|
|Engine Backfiring||Troubleshoot fuel and carburetor.|
|Blown Head Gasket||Replace head gasket and troubleshoot fuel system.|
4 Most Common Problems with Kawasaki FR691V and Their Possible Solutions:
You may experience Kawasaki FR691V problems right after buying it or after a few months. Here are some of the most common problems and how to solve them.
1. Carburetor Issues
The Kawasaki FR691V engine may cut out as you continue with your mowing. You may have to pull the throttle to keep it going. The engine will also cause limping back to the garage.
It will run alright for a minute or two before cutting out the next. After letting it sit for a while, it may functions normally. But only for a few minutes. It may seem like the float is stuck shut within the carburetor.
Replace the carburettor and clean the fuel filter. Check the fuel solenoid inside the carburettor if the problem does not go away. That is the most likely component causing issues with the throttle and such.
It blocks the carburetor’s main jet while it is off. It can be losing voltage or simply overheating due to a faulty coil. The best test is to take it out and run it with the hole plugged, although that might not be possible.
The needle valve channel in the a new carburetor can contain oil line debris. To see whether you have any debris, remove the needle valve and blow from the valve opening back toward the fuel inlet.
Then, use a clean cloth to search for microscopic particles that resemble hair. These are likely old fuel lines flaking the fuel tank’s inside lining due to the ethanol.
2. Starter Issue
The starter issues are quite common with this engine. The issues include failed starter components, overheating, battery buildup causing the starter to fail and many more.
The most common symptom is the mower turns but does not start. Or it ay have a hard start or may not crank at all.
Open the hood to inspect a few things. You may notice that the rocker bracket bolts have come nearly out. The pushrod may also get bent by the other valve’s extreme tightness.
Check the starter solenoid, safety switch and battery connections. If all seem well, make sure the valve adjustments are proper.
Replace the pushrods that got bent. Verify that the entire rocker support is in the proper location in the head and that the replacement push rod is placed correctly in the follower.
Create an indexing mark on the head and the block, then check to see if it always stops in the same spot.
A coil bound valve spring might result from improper pushrod seating, which the starter cannot overcome. If nothing is working, take the machine to the dealer.
Check this article for more info about Kawasaki FR691V Starter Problems & Solutions.
3. Engine Backfiring
The engine often backfires under load. This is commonly termed as ‘popping under load’. The problem increases fiercely when you are going uphill. However, when the blades are off, this problem will stop.
That is a standard indicator that the problem happens due to load. But sometimes, while mowing, the engine may backfire and die.
Additionally, the mower will rev higher and run longer when you open the throttle and choke to half. But it won’t run smoother. When the choke is open or closed, it heavily smokes in black.
Lack of proper amount of fuel and carburetor issues can cause such backfiring. Drain some fuel out, rinse the tank and refill with good fuel. Also, check the carburetor. The air filter is likely to cause the problem too.
Examine the plugs and the plug wires thoroughly. Water in the gas accounts for 80% of no start and pooping. And 15% of an engine backfiring and stopping is due to gas more than 30 days old.
However, if you had a lot of water, even pooting would stop since there would be more water than gas when you tried to crank up. Partial choking can help suck out some of the water.
4. Blown Head Gasket
The most common symptoms of a blown head gasket include engine backfiring, smoking and lack of compression. Milky fuel is also noticeable.
As soon as you activate the blades, it will start to backfire. Additionally, it will start blowing smoke. It will start slowly at the start and then erupt vigorously after some time.
If the smoke is white, you may have cracked or warped heads, poor head gaskets, or both. The cylinders may also make a hissing sound.
Pull the dipstick after running the engine for a few minutes, then turn it off. An oil rising confirms a blown head gasket. Check the plugs after removing them to determine whether one appears to be cleaner than the other. Check the dipstick for milky oil.
If the symptoms are confirmed, it’s time to change the head gasket. Take it to the dealership.
What Majority of the Users Feel Kawasaki FR691V?
The three things that caught the users’ attention were the air filtering, engine covers, and carburetor. The FS and FX are the only Kawasaki series engines “rated” greater than the FR, and the FR has always been categorized as a heavy-duty residential engine.
The users reflect on the overhead V-valve, a 90° V-twin and high-performance pressurized lubrication of the engine. Additionally, the automatic compression release, internally vented carburetor with fuel shut-off solenoid and a rotating grass screen is why they go for this one.
However, the problems of the starter, the engine backfiring and others are quite common. It is pretty frustrating for the owners too. They seem to avoid this one for this reason.
The new Kawasaki’s all have these persistent issues. All of a sudden, they have poor seals. Out of the camshaft seal, they all leak quickly. Most people would swap with a Kohler.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Kawasaki’s critical power method?
Kawasaki uses Critical Power, the industry’s strictest standard for rating horsepower, to guarantee consistently accurate power. SAE has approved Kawasaki Critical Power engines as correct.
What blend oil should be used in the Kawasaki FR691V engines?
The typical composition of regular pump gas is 90% lead-free gasoline and 10% ethanol (E-10). This fuel is compatible with all Kawasaki lawnmower engines. Avoid E-15 or E-85.
Where are the Kawasaki mower engines made?
In the United States of America.
After research, I have concluded that the Kawasaki FR691V engines are not worth the bucks. Most users agree that they are a nuance. They replace it as soon as they get a chance.
So my recommendation would be to avoid it at all costs.